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Rome and Central Italy

Rome and central Italy form one of the European regions most densely layered with sacred memories. Within a few kilometres the religion of the Etruscans, the cults of ancient Rome, the Christianity of martyrs and saints, the Hermetic philosophy of the Renaissance and the Baroque taste for riddles overlap. This section guides the reader from the Alchemical Door of Piazza Vittorio to the Pantheon, from the underground mithraea to the Lapis Niger in the Forum, from Castel Sant'Angelo to the legends of Piazza Navona. It then widens to the Florence of Marsilio Ficino, the Sacred Grove of Bomarzo, the sword of Montesiepi, the Sibyl's cave, Spoleto, Orvieto, Assisi, Tarquinia and Civita di Bagnoregio. Each article tells of documented places, dates, works and figures, carefully distinguishing history from legend, because myth too, once its origin is known, becomes a key to understanding the landscape.

41.90° N12.51° E1Rome and Central Italy

The Alchemical Door of Piazza Vittorio: Carved Symbols and Mottoes

The Magic Door on the Esquiline, last remnant of Villa Palombara: planetary symbols, Latin mottoes and alchemical sources of a unique Roman monument.

3 min read
41.90° N12.50° E2Rome and Central Italy

The Marquis Palombara and the Alchemists of Baroque Rome

Who Massimiliano Palombara was, the role of Queen Christina of Sweden, and how the legend of the pilgrim who left flakes of gold behind came about.

3 min read
41.89° N12.48° E3Rome and Central Italy

The Mouth of Truth: the Great Mask of Santa Maria in Cosmedin

The ancient origin of the great marble disc, the medieval legend of liars and the unfaithful wife, and the history of the church by the Forum Boarium.

3 min read
41.90° N12.48° E4Rome and Central Italy

The Pantheon, Temple of All the Gods and Sky of Stone

From Agrippa's dedication to Hadrian's rebuilding, from the dome and its oculus to the church of the martyrs: history, symbols and legends of the Pantheon.

3 min read
41.89° N12.50° E5Rome and Central Italy

The Mithraea of Rome: the Underground Cult of the God Mithras

San Clemente, Santa Prisca, the Circus Maximus and the Baths of Caracalla: where Mithras's followers met and what their images still tell us today.

3 min read
41.89° N12.48° E6Rome and Central Italy

The Lapis Niger in the Forum: the Black Stone and Romulus's Tomb

Discovered by Giacomo Boni in 1899, the Lapis Niger preserves one of the oldest Latin inscriptions and the memory of a place the Romans thought ill-omened.

3 min read
41.90° N12.47° E7Rome and Central Italy

Castel Sant'Angelo: from Hadrian's Mausoleum to the Archangel

Hadrian's imperial tomb, Gregory the Great's vision in 590, the Passetto and famous prisoners: the many lives of Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome.

3 min read
41.90° N12.47° E8Rome and Central Italy

Piazza Navona: Domitian's Stadium and the Baroque Legends

From the ancient stadium to the Fountain of the Four Rivers, from the Bernini and Borromini rivalry to the August lake: Piazza Navona's history and legends.

3 min read
43.81° N11.25° E9Rome and Central Italy

Neoplatonic Florence: Marsilio Ficino and the Careggi Academy

Cosimo de' Medici, Marsilio Ficino and the villa at Careggi: how fifteenth-century Florence rediscovered Plato and Hermes Trismegistus and changed Europe.

3 min read
42.49° N12.25° E10Rome and Central Italy

The Sacred Grove of Bomarzo and the Monsters of Vicino Orsini

Ogres, dragons, sphinxes and a leaning house carved in peperino stone: history, inscriptions and meanings of Vicino Orsini's Sacred Grove at Bomarzo.

3 min read
43.15° N11.15° E11Rome and Central Italy

Montesiepi and the Sword in the Stone of Saint Galgano

The knight Galgano Guidotti, the sword driven into stone in 1180, the Montesiepi rotunda and the roofless abbey: history and legend in rural Tuscany.

3 min read
42.86° N13.26° E12Rome and Central Italy

The Sibyl's Cave and the Legends of the Sibillini Mountains

The kingdom of the Apennine Sibyl, Guerrin Meschino, Antoine de la Sale's journey in 1420 and Pilate's lake: the myths of the Sibillini Mountains.

3 min read
42.73° N12.75° E13Rome and Central Italy

Spoleto, the Law of the Sacred Grove and the Hermits of Monteluco

The Lex Spoletina on the sacred grove, Monteluco's holm oaks inhabited by hermits, Hannibal repelled and San Pietro's carvings: Spoleto's hidden side.

3 min read
42.72° N12.12° E14Rome and Central Italy

Orvieto and Saint Patrick's Well, between Popes and Etruscans

Antonio da Sangallo's well commissioned by Clement VII, its two spiral stairways, the Irish origin of its name and the Etruscan city hidden in the tufa.

3 min read
43.07° N12.61° E15Rome and Central Italy

Assisi, the Mystical Geography of Francis and Clare

The Temple of Minerva, the basilica begun in 1228, San Damiano and the Canticle of the Creatures, the Carceri hermitage: the sacred places of Assisi.

3 min read
42.25° N11.76° E16Rome and Central Italy

Etruscan Tarquinia: the Painted Tombs and the Myth of Tages

The Monterozzi necropolis, the Tombs of the Augurs, the Leopards and the Orcus, the winged horses and Tages, the child who taught the art of haruspicy.

3 min read
42.63° N12.11° E17Rome and Central Italy

Civita di Bagnoregio, the Village Suspended between Badlands and Saints

Etruscan origins, the 1695 earthquake, the footbridge and the figure of Saint Bonaventure: the history and legends of Civita di Bagnoregio in Tuscia.

3 min read
41.91° N12.48° E18Rome and Central Italy

The Egyptian Obelisks of Rome and the Dream of Hieroglyphs

From the Lateran to Piazza della Minerva: how the obelisks reached Rome, how Sixtus V raised them again and why hieroglyphs seemed to hide secret wisdom.

3 min read
41.89° N12.49° E19Rome and Central Italy

The Temple of Vesta and the Vestals, Guardians of Rome's Fire

The round temple in the Forum, the eternal flame, the Palladium and the virgin priestesses: the history, privileges and end of the cult of Vesta in Rome.

3 min read
43.32° N11.33° E20Rome and Central Italy

Hermes Trismegistus and the Sibyls on the Floor of Siena Cathedral

The 1488 Hermes panel, the ten Sibyls and Pinturicchio's Hill of Wisdom: the inlaid marble floor of Siena Cathedral and the symbols it holds for visitors.

3 min read