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Naples and the South

Southern Italy is a land where myth has never stopped inhabiting places. In Naples the poet Virgil became a magician and protector of the city, a siren gave it its name, and an eighteenth-century prince turned a chapel into an enigma of marble. Beneath the streets lies a second city of tuff, peopled by souls, household spirits and skulls adopted by popular piety. Beyond the bay, the journey continues to the Phlegraean Fields, where Greeks and Romans placed the Sibyl and the entrance to the underworld, and then to Benevento and its witches' walnut tree, the octagon of Castel del Monte, the Sassi of Matera, the mosaic of Otranto and the trulli of Alberobello. In Sicily we meet Cagliostro and the Beati Paoli in Palermo, the magician Heliodorus in Catania and the Ear of Dionysius in Syracuse. Each article carefully separates documented history from legend, to show how the South has woven together faith, learning and imagination.

40.85° N14.26° E1Naples and the South

Raimondo di Sangro, the alchemist prince of Sansevero

The life, inventions and legends of Raimondo di Sangro, seventh Prince of Sansevero: scientist, freemason and reputed alchemist of 18th-century Naples.

3 min read
40.85° N14.26° E2Naples and the South

The Sansevero Chapel and the mystery of the Veiled Christ

From Sanmartino's Veiled Christ to the anatomical machines: a guide to the symbols of the Sansevero Chapel, the Baroque temple of Raimondo di Sangro.

3 min read
40.83° N14.25° E3Naples and the South

Virgil the magician and the egg that holds up Castel dell'Ovo

How the poet of the Aeneid became, in the Middle Ages, the magician guardian of Naples, and why the city's fate was tied to an egg hidden in the castle.

3 min read
40.85° N14.26° E4Naples and the South

Underground Naples, the city carved out of tuff

Greek quarries, Roman aqueducts, cisterns and wartime shelters: the history of underground Naples and the legends born beneath the city's streets.

3 min read
40.86° N14.24° E5Naples and the South

The anime pezzentelle and the Fontanelle Cemetery

In the Sanità district thousands of anonymous skulls were adopted by Neapolitans: the story of the cult of the anime pezzentelle and its 1969 ban.

3 min read
40.85° N14.25° E6Naples and the South

The Munaciello, the little monk of Neapolitan homes

Mischievous or generous, the Munaciello is the most famous household spirit of Naples: origins of the legend, from the well-men to Matilde Serao's tale.

3 min read
40.83° N14.25° E7Naples and the South

The Siren Parthenope and the mythical origins of Naples

From the siren defeated by Odysseus to the city of Neapolis: the myth of Parthenope, her tomb, the games held in her honour and the images that recall her.

3 min read
41.13° N14.78° E8Naples and the South

Benevento, the janare and the witches' walnut tree

From the Lombard cult around a sacred tree to the witch trials: how Benevento became, in the European imagination, the capital city of witches.

3 min read
41.09° N16.27° E9Naples and the South

Castel del Monte, Frederick II's octagon of stone

Frederick II's castle in Apulia between geometry, astronomy and esoteric theories: what the documents say and what belongs to the realm of legend.

3 min read
40.67° N16.61° E10Naples and the South

Matera, the Sassi and the sacred carved in rock

Caves inhabited for millennia, frescoed rock churches and the Bruna festival: the ancient and symbolic face of Matera, the city of the Sassi in Basilicata.

3 min read
40.15° N18.49° E11Naples and the South

Otranto and the mosaic of the tree of life

Pantaleone's great mosaic in Otranto Cathedral: King Arthur, Alexander the Great, the zodiac and the cosmic tree in an encyclopaedia made of stone.

3 min read
40.85° N14.05° E12Naples and the South

Cumae and the cave of the Sibyl

The oldest Greek colony in the West and Apollo's prophetess sung by Virgil: the history, myth and archaeology of the cave of the Cumaean Sibyl.

3 min read
40.84° N14.08° E13Naples and the South

Lake Avernus and the Phlegraean Fields, gateway to the underworld

For Greeks and Romans the crater of Avernus was the entrance to the afterlife: myths, classical texts and Phlegraean sites linked to the realm of the dead.

3 min read
38.12° N13.36° E14Naples and the South

Cagliostro, the count born in the alleys of Palermo

Giuseppe Balsamo, born in Palermo in 1743, became Count Cagliostro: healer, freemason and adventurer famous across the Europe of the Enlightenment.

3 min read
38.12° N13.36° E15Naples and the South

The Beati Paoli, the secret sect of Palermo

Hooded avengers in Palermo's underground: the origins of the Beati Paoli legend, from eighteenth-century chronicles to the novel by Luigi Natoli.

3 min read
38.11° N13.34° E16Naples and the South

The Capuchin Catacombs, the motionless people of Palermo

Friars, nobles and children preserved for centuries in the convent corridors: the Capuchin Catacombs of Palermo and the city's relationship with death.

3 min read
37.50° N15.09° E17Naples and the South

Catania, Heliodorus the magician and the stone elephant

Why the people of Catania call the Piazza Duomo elephant «Liotru»: the legend of Heliodorus, 8th-century magician, and of Bishop Leo who defeated him.

3 min read
37.08° N15.28° E18Naples and the South

Syracuse and the Ear of Dionysius

An artificial cave with startling acoustics, a suspicious tyrant and a name coined by Caravaggio: the history and legend of the Ear of Dionysius.

3 min read
40.78° N17.24° E19Naples and the South

Alberobello and the symbols painted on the trulli

Crosses, hearts, planets and mysterious signs traced in lime on the roofs: the history of the trulli of Alberobello and the readings of their symbols.

3 min read
40.85° N14.26° E20Naples and the South

Saint Januarius, the blood and the pact with the city

The martyrdom, the phials, the dates of the liquefaction and the Treasure: the cult of Saint Januarius, patron of Naples, between faith and tradition.

3 min read